Rising above the east coast of Sicily, between Catania and Taormina, Mount Etna is the tallest active volcano in Europe, standing a little over 3,300 metres high. Its height shifts as eruptions build and reshape the summit craters. In 2013 UNESCO listed it as a World Heritage Site, and for anyone travelling in eastern Sicily it is impossible to ignore: on a clear day the smoking peak is visible from almost everywhere.
Getting up the mountain
Most visitors approach from the south side, driving up from Nicolosi to the Rifugio Sapienza area at around 1,900 metres. From there the Funivia dell'Etna cable car climbs to roughly 2,500 metres, and 4x4 vehicles continue higher across the black lava fields. Access to the summit craters is regulated and depends on volcanic activity, so going with an authorised volcano guide is the safe and sensible choice. The north side, reached from Linguaglossa and Piano Provenzana, is quieter and wooded with pine and birch.
When to go
Late spring and early autumn bring the most comfortable hiking weather. Summer is busy and hot at the base, but the upper slopes stay cool, so bring layers whatever the season. In winter the upper mountain is often snow-covered, and you can ski with a view of the sea. Conditions change quickly at altitude, and activity on the volcano can close areas at short notice, so check local updates before you set out.
Food and wine on the slopes
The volcanic soil makes Etna one of Italy's most exciting wine areas. The Etna DOC reds are built on Nerello Mascalese, and the whites on Carricante, and many family wineries around Castiglione di Sicilia, Randazzo and Milo welcome visitors for tastings. Nearby Bronte is famous for its bright green pistachios, which turn up in pesto, cream and gelato. Honey, mushrooms and chestnuts from the mountain's woods fill the menus of the slope villages.
Where to base yourself
Catania puts you closest to the south-side roads and the airport. Taormina offers the classic view of Etna framed by its ancient Greek theatre. For a slower stay, choose an agriturismo or wine estate among the vineyards on the north and east slopes.
Planning a trip to Sicily? Explore the island's cities, beaches and food in the full Sicily travel guide on Italia Magnifica, and read more about visiting Mount Etna.